By Eileen Traylor
Organic implies food and other items derived from raw materials that are wild-crafted or organically grown. The processes used minimize damage to the environment and improve the quality of life for the workers and animals involved.
Following is an overview of the growing variety of organic materials being used in the clothing & fashion industries to assist us in making healthier choices for ourselves, our families, and the earth. Additionally, we have included a summary of the dye processes most widely used by eco-friendly manufacturers.
Natural color clothing is the healthiest and most eco-friendly. These include color-grown cottons (brown, blue, purple, green) and natural color wools and alpaca. No dyes are used and the fabric maintains a consistent color.
Clay-dyeing uses an age old technique of grinding minerals and irons found within earthen clay, blending with water then soaking natural color cotton to the desired hue. After several washings, a slight color change may be expected.
Low-impact fiber-reactive dyes remain the most widely used in the organic manufacturing industry because of their color diversity. The colors are bright, rich, and colorfast. Low-impact fiber-reactive dyes are considered an eco-friendly pigment because they contain no formaldehyde or heavy metals (ie. bright turquoise and bright yellow typically require heavy metals to achieve their brightness) and create less waste water runoff than modern dyeing methods. Seventy percent or more of the dye actually adheres to the fiber during the dye process. Waste water is filtered multiple times and is returned to the water system cleaner than it was originally. But, the actual dyes are almost always found to be made from synthetic petrochemicals. As the industry grows, however, one may anticipate development of a true non-toxic pigment to rival the low-impact dyes currently available.
Organic cotton, inherently soft to the touch, is grown without chemical fertilizers or pesticides; requires minimal processing and possesses no chemical finishes. This growing method improves soil quality; supports biodiversity and our fragile ecosystems. Organically grown cotton yields are high and the chemical-free working environment promotes health and wellbeing.
Bamboo fabric is extremely durable which belies its luxurious delicate sheen and soft rayon-like drape. It retains its antibacterial qualities, killing odor-causing bacteria that live on human skin. It has excellent insulating properties and is highly absorbent and breathable, wicking moisture away from the skin while keeping the wearer cooler in summer and warmer in winter. Bamboo, a highly renewable resource, is a fast growing grass, ready for harvest within 5 years. It is naturally resistant to pests making it relatively easy to grow without the use of chemicals.
EcoSpun is a polyester fiber made entirely from recycled plastic bottles! EcoSpun fleece is warm, durable, lightweight, weather resistant and soft to the touch. It is often blended with other fibers such as cotton, wool and Tencel for manufacture of clothing, blankets, carpeting, fiberfill and other home furnishings.
Woven hemp can be traced back 10,000 years making it one of the oldest textiles known to man. The fabric for the first flag of the United States of America was hemp, as were the covers for the wagons that dared to venture west, attesting to its strength and durability. It resists UV light and is mold resistant. Its texture is compared most closely to linen. For the record, industrial hemp has no drug value. Hemp is grown organically, needs no irrigation, is insect resistant and is harvested and processed without machinery. It produces up to 3 times more fiber per acre than cotton. Woven hemp is breathable and may be produced on its own as a fabric or combined with other fibers as a blend.
Ingeo fibers offer a viable sustainable solution to synthetics. As a fabric, Ingeo's luxurious feel contradicts its durability and easy maintenance. A derivative of fermented corn, an annually renewable resource, Ingeo fibers require about half of the energy needed in the production of synthetic polyester and release fifty percent fewer greenhouse gasses during the production process. From raw material through to the end product, the manufacture of Ingeo fibers integrates environmental responsibility with excellent product performance and comfort. This extraordinary product delivers comparable performance characteristics to the easy care synthetic polyester fibers we have come to love in a variety of clothing and home accessories.
Linen is derived from the flax plant, and like hemp, its use dates back thousands of years. Linen is absorbent and breathable which gives it excellent wicking qualities. Organically grown linen drapes beautifully and compliments many fabrics as a blend, giving eco-friendly designers yet another fabric to further verify that the new "green" is style, quality, and performance.
Soy fabric is made using a by-product of the process used to make tofu. Because of its high protein count, it is receptive to natural dyes, has an amazingly soft cashmere quality, is lightweight, breathable and super comfortable to wear. What more can we say?
Tencel is made from wood pulp cellulose. It offers a soft, silky hand, has super absorbency qualities, is as strong as any synthetic, enjoys the coolness of linen and is as warm as wool! The most naturally hygienic fiber, Tencel prevents the growth of bacteria. Through manipulation of the fibers during processing, a variety of looks from denim to suede can be accomplished.
Wool is considered organic when the wool is harvested without harm to its source. Guidelines to insure this include the prevention of overgrazing through limiting the number of animals per acre. No synthetic pesticides may be used on grazing lands, feed is organic, and antibiotic use is regulated. Raw and untreated, wool has scales that cause shrinkage and make it feel itchy and coarse to the hand. To improve these qualities, organic wool is slow-washed to reduce shrinkage and produce a wonderfully soft texture.
